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As October is upon us, we are starting to see our fall favorites show up at the farmer's markets: cabbages, brussels sprouts, winter squash and pumpkins. Seeing these vegetables is a sure sign that autumn is here. But there is one item that appears this time of year that is the true harbinger of the changing season - the apple. As the air become cool and crisp and the leaves start to turn, I feel the need to take a trip to my nearest u-pick orchard.

There the trees are bursting with their crisp and shiny red fruit. I have been an apple picker since childhood, and I have vivid memories of hauling home huge bags of apples. My parents would store the bags in the cool air of our garage, and I'd grab one every time I walked by. We picked exclusively McIntosh in those days, and it was one of the few apples I knew by sight. These days there seems to be a huge variety of apples available. When I go picking I try to come home with a little bit of each cultivar. I separate them, hoping to learn one from the next. But I am never able to remember which is which and I end up with a big mix.

Apples seem perfectly timed to ripen just when the weather allows you to turn on oven again. As much as I love apples raw, I can never eat as many as I bring home. As I look at the bounty in front of me, I see all the pies, crisps, and tarts I can make. I hit the cookbooks to find inspiration. Many recipes seem to specify Granny Smith, the workhorse of the apple family. These tart, rugged, green apples are available in any US supermarket, any time of the year. Originally developed in Australia, they are grown and sold worldwide. They are excellent baking apples as their low water content allows the slices to keep their shape, and their wide availability makes them a good choice for recipes.

But you'd be hard pressed to find supermarket varieties, like the Granny Smith, at the local u-pick or the farmers markets. Most smaller farmers tend to grow more regional apples that are better suited for their climate. I have a growing awareness in using produce that is grown locally. ( something more here?) So what should I make with all the Galas, Ida Reds, McIntosh, Fujis, Cortlands and Honey Crisp available here in New York? When would I pick one type over the other?

To find out I went to Dolan Orchard in Wallkill, NY. Dolan started in the 1940's and grows about 20 different types of apples. There I met with Bob Dolan and Laura Bush to learn the unique characteristics of some of the more common regional varieties.

Braeburn - this is an old fashioned sweet apple, with very crisp texture and yellowish flesh. excellent for eating raw and cooking. it stores and ships well, which makes it available in most states.

Crispin

This large green apple was developed in Japan where it is known as a Mutsu. It is a cross between Golden Delicious and Indo. It bakes well, and is a good local substitute for a granny smith.

Cortland

This is sweet apple with a slight tartness, it has juicy, very white flesh. It is excellent for eating, salads and baking. it is also good for serving as raw slices as the flesh discolors more slowly than other varieties.

Empire

This apple is a cross between Red Delicious and Mcintosh. It is a sweet apple with a crisp texture and bright white flesh.They do not bruise easliy which makes them a good choice for lunchboxes.

Fuji

A Japanese hybrid apple, which was developed by crossing Red Delicious and Ralls Janet, an antique American apple. Its is sweet and juicy with cream colored flesh. It is excellent for fresh eating and for salads. This apples sweetness makes it a good choice for applesauce.

Gala

This apple has a mildly sweet flavor with crisp, creamy yellow flesh. its juiciness makes it excellent for fresh eating and for salads. It's smaller size and subtle flavor and thin skin makes them a good choice for school lunches. Galas are good cooking apples as their low moisture content allows the slices to hold their shape.

Honey Crisp

New variety developed in Minnesota in 1991. excellent for fresh eating, good for baking and pies. Some people who have stomach reactions to raw apples can eat the newer varieties like Honeycrisp and Gala because their acid contents are lower than other apples.

Ida Reds

Developed in Idaho in 1791, by crossing two classic NY state apples - the jonathan and the wagener. It has a mellow flavor and moderate sweetness. These apples are best used for baking and cooking, rather than for fresh eating.

Jonamac

Developed by crossing Jonathan and Mcintosh. It has the distinctive white flesh of the Mcintosh, but with a mellow and less tart flavor. Like its parent, the Mcintosh, it softens quickly when cooked.

Macoun

This apple is was developed in 1932 in geneva ny. it is very sweet and aromatic. It has very juicy and tender snow white flesh. Like the Due to its high water content, it is best used for fresh eating for sauces.

McIntosh

This variety is common to the northeast US and Canada. its skin is patched with red and green. It has soft white flesh and a tangy tart flavor. Like the Macoun it has a high water content, and softens very quickly when cooked. This limits its use as a baking apple and is best used as an fresh eating apple, in applesauce and ciders.

Northern Spy

It is a good dessert and pie apple that is also used for juice and cider. the Northern Spy is an excellent apple for cold storage, as the flesh tends to last longer than other varieties.

Red Delicious

This is the famous apple on the teacher's desk. it is sweet and juicy, with crisp yellow flesh. this apple stores and ships well. As it is not a good cooking apple, it is best used for fresh eating.

Rhode Island Greening

Thisis another local substitute for a Granny Smith. It is a tart and crisp apple. The firm flesh makes it an excellent choice for sauces, pies and baking.

Rome

This apple originated in Ohio in 1861. it has a mildly tart flavor, with firm greenish white flesh. It is best used for baking and cooking, as the slices retain their shape as they cook.